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This article was originally posted to the USENet group “rec.martial-arts” back in December 1999, addressing how Western Boxing not only is a martial art, but its unique qualities blend well with other functional fighting skills. Enjoy.

Where would one begin?

Boxing has excellent mechanics for weight conveyance in striking.

It stresses timing, range, and angling like few other combat arts in existence.

It teaches you habits which minimize the chance of getting hit — essential in the eyes of anyone who has really stood at range and hit an opponent who was willing and able to hit back. Also an excellent complement to other defensive skills. People don’t realize this until they get into a real fight, and they get hit because their chin was up, their hands too low, their predisposition too defensive and retreating, their footwork non-mobile, and their head stationary.

Boxing combines well with the Filipino Martial Arts, with Muay Thai, numerous other functional syntheses of martial art, and also aids tremendously in one’s ability to fight on the street with modifications adding in eye jabs, elbows, head/hand/arm immobilizations, etc.

It combines well with pummeling and tie-up skills from a variety of grappling arts. In fact, they facilitate eachother very well if you know how to do it.

Boxing skills provide attacking ability which works very well in setting up your entry to grappling range, whether to in-fight or take it to the ground.

Boxing teaches you the value of making the opponent miss without throwing out your own posture for counterattack. Very few arts even teach or understand this to the degree that boxing does.

Boxing uses angles which achieve the ideal impact against an unsupported flush surface. Combinations taught in boxing are designed specifically to build into an incapacitating blow — very much like chasing someone through a maze, until they make a wrong turn and end up at a dead end.

In keeping with the above, boxing teaches the value of continuity in your motion. It would be nice to be able to dispel any attacker with a simple pushbutton solution — often espoused by “self defense” methods — but against a determined and able attacker, this just doesn’t happen.

And boxing makes you tough.

However.

Boxing is not a complete martial art. It does not claim to be.

Boxers are generally the best at what they do — striking at punching range — but this is by no means the alpha and the omega of fighting as a whole. Beyond this, the ability of someone who trains in boxing to do well as a fighter in the street depends on a number of other things as well.

If you train in boxing, your stance must be modified to take into account other things. A person with boxing training who intends to really fight should also be trained and prepared to sprawl against a shooter, block and avoid leg kicks, protect his groin, learn good tie-up skills and how to dominate this range, etc. etc.

He should also know how to kick, grapple, elbow, knee, rip, gouge, and how to use these and other tactics as means to other ends, etc.

Also, a person who can box must be willing to leave that mode behind when the range doesn’t call for it. I could write a 10 page article on this topic alone.

There’s a lot more to this. These are some points of departure.

Frank Benn
Integrated Arts
Austin, Texas

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This article was originally posted to the USENet group “rec.martial-arts” back in April 1998, answering a question on how the grappler may thwart a striker’s blows, by closing range and getting to the clinch. Enjoy.

> I was wondering how grapplers keep from getting hit by
> someone who is a striker, seems to me that as the grappler
> comes in he is liable to get rocked with a strike.
> However I have seen grapplers that seem willing to get
> hit in exchange for a chance to get in close. Is that how
> all grapplers feel about getting in on an someone?

Actually, a grappler does NOT have to settle for taking a shot or two to get to the clinch. This is a common misconception. It’s all a matter of timing and angling.

Look at it this way. When it comes to angling, you simply have to shoot in low and off-center with the head, and you can relatively easily avoid getting hit (either with a punch or kick). The opponent can only hit something solidly that is right in front of him and at the right vertical level.

Then you look at timing. The two best times to shoot in against a striker are :

1. Right after he has initiated an attack

2. When his attacking limb is fully extended and has begun to retract.

But if you go in straight up the middle at, say, chest level, and time it when he is cocked and ready to fire, then yes, I would then say that you’re going to have to eat a punch or two to get the clinch. But change the timing and angling of your approach and the odds weigh heavily against HIM.

The important thing, though, is that you avoid going in right into his firing line.

Frank Benn
Integrated Arts
Austin, Texas

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This article was originally posted to the USENet group “rec.martial-arts” back in March 1999, addressing how the grappler’s strategy and mindset needs to change, when fighting multiple attackers. Enjoy.

I’ve heard a lot of things over the years about BJJ not being any good for multiple opponent situations, etc., and for the most part I agree. This goes back several years before the first UFC (1993) when everybody “else” finally heard about it and wanted to learn it.

One thing you have to understand is this. In terms of handling multiple unarmed opponents, the BEST person to handle this is a good grappler who can box. Boxing alone is not as good, since multiple opponents tend to grab, crowd you, control, and hit. They don’t all just stand at range and tee off.

Secondly. I’ve trained in boxing, kickboxing, traditional Asian punching and kicking arts, Filipino martial arts, wrestling, and submission grappling for about two decades. The most advantageous position in all of fighting to have your opponent in (barring none) is the knee on chest position. It’s the fish in a barrel position. If I were fighting two game opponents (guys that just don’t go down from the first good punch), I’d want one of them on his back under my knee where I could REALLY hurt him. Yet, in this position I am standing, mind you. One person is completely incapacitated, where I can knock him out in about one second (equals 5 to 7 solid punches on the chin which WILL NOT miss because he can’t move or defend). I would turn to where the other guy is in front of me, do in his friend, and the guy that’s still standing can’t get to me in time without stepping on his own friend. To go around, he uses up that precious second I just used to knock out his body, and now it’s his turn.

I’m already standing when in a high knee on chest, and I can stay low and take the other guy down, grab his kick if he tries that and take him down, or go right back to stand-up fighting, now mano a mano.

This is a scenario I’ve practiced, taught, and applied for many years now, and anybody skilled in BJJ will have this going for him. It’s one of the best ways to deal with two opponents — i.e. where one of them is completely unable to hit you, and the other is not able to get to you in time. As I said before, the guy on his back is knocked out in a second or so, and you never went to the ground. Even an intermediate takedown artist can put a larger opponent on his back and kneel on his chest, post the other leg 45 degrees off the shoulder, and shoot the fish in the barrel.

If the standing opponent is behind you, then you switch to the other side around the head (takes about 1/3 second), OR you abandon the position altogether and take your standing man out. You have about 2-3 seconds to do it before your knee-on-chest guy gets back to his feet — an eternity compared to the amount of time you’d have if he had never been on his back.

I generally chuckle to myself when I see some of the assumptions people make about arts they haven’t trained in, but enough is truly enough. I’m considered a pretty fast heavyweight as a boxer, and even I’d prefer to put one of my two opponents on his back to knock him out. This comes from having had to deal with both opponents standing in the past, and knowing certain dynamics that make this difficult.

Frank Benn
Integrated Arts
Austin, Texas

P.S. And if you need to run away, knee on chest allows for this as well. Like I’ve said before, ground grappling does not necessarily mean YOU go to the ground — only that HE does.

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This article was originally posted to the USENet group “rec.martial-arts” back in July 1999, in response to a question sent to the group on how to develop greater kicking speed. Enjoy.

Some tips for you on Speed in Kicking:

– Key Muscle Groups for Speed in Kicking: Gluteus Medius, Hip Flexors, Lower Back, and Abdominal Obliques –

Develop these muscles with side raises (foot never goes below one foot off the floor) and side lockout extensions. Lack of development in these areas is the reason why most people kick slowly, as they are responsible for the raising of the kicking leg, and the arching and torquing the occurs in the back, counterrotation of hips to shoulders, etc. This is a weak area in most people (martial artists included), and development of these muscles will also enhance your ability to escape inferior positions in grappling (as a side benefit). Do the side raises in 3 directions: side, 45 front, and straight back — while holding on to something at waist height with the opposite hand only (a table or counter)

– Light target training –

Hang a towel or rag from the ceiling in your garage or living room. Vary the vertical level, and work multiple kicking angles in rapid succession

– Side to Side Shuffle –

Do lunging side kicks in opposite directions (180 degrees apart), shuffling in one direction, and then in the other, without ever putting both feet on the floor. This will develop your lunging speed, penetration, and power for lead leg advancing kicks

– Multiple 3 Kick Drill from Chamber –

This drill will develop the muscle groups mentioned above, and will also develop the ability to extend your kick with a twitching quality. This is very important. A kick — start to finish — should happen in an instant. No discernible set-up and follow-through. Just a very quick twitch that sets off an explosion (your hips are the powder keg). This is your goal once you have established good form in your kicks. From a chamber, throw round kick, side kick, and hook kick in rapid succession. This is NOT a drill which simulates how you would execute your kicks — i.e. you wouldn’t want to throw from a set chamber — it is simply a way to develop your twitch movement in sending your kicks quickly and with authority at their weakest stages

– Straight Line –

If you want a fast side kick, for instance, don’t chamber up and back and then release. This is too slow, and you’re apt to give up your back if he sidesteps outside of it. Think of a straight line which ascends into the target, whipping the hips at the end of it and counter-rotating your shoulders/arms. Same goes for the round kick, etc. When a person chambers his kicks before letting them fly, it is relatively easy to stop kick, block him with the knee, etc., or change range (either into boxing range, or out to let it go by)

– Lunging Kicks, The Race –

The key to attaining speed in your lunging lead leg kicks is to make sure you land the kick before your weight settles on the supporting foot. This will also help your power. Think of it as a race. Your lead leg is trying to kick before your supporting leg can bear weight. But. Don’t bob or bounce. There should be no up and down motion. That’s the trick. When you can do this, you’ll be able to lunge horizontally like lightning

– Think Fast –

The key to being fast is to think "fast". This is something I’ve been telling my students for over 16 years. One of the first things I became known for in certain circles was my kicking speed. At tournaments, exhibitions, etc., people used to come up and ask me all the time how I could kick so fast. The easiest reply was, "Think fast, and you will be fast. Always insist of yourself that you move at top speed."

– Start At Full Speed, and Accelerate From There –

Another important concept that I always tell my students. Your first movement — at the very beginning — should be full speed. From there, you should be relaxed, and accelerate from there. This goes hand in hand with the previous item above, and is very difficult to do. But, it will help your speed and power tremendously if you practice and apply it. Most people do not even realize that when they begin to move, they do so (either consciously or unconsciously) at a slower speed, so they can "build up" to top speed at full extension of a kick or punch. They do this so that their power reaches an apex at full extension. The problem, though, is that the opponent has eyes. He perceives this build-up, and makes it miss. Most people, if they start a kick at full speed, tend to peter out from that point onward, and the kick will have no power. This is why, once your kick starts off at full speed, it must accelerate from there — so that it has power. When it is not accelerating, it is not *pushing off* of something. Acceleration is a major key to power (and some forms of leverage), since a kick when it is accelerating has mass behind it. When it is not accelerating, then it is out there on its own

——————————————–

The above tips should help you out in developing faster kicks without compromising good technique or power (major problems if you are not careful). Five years ago, at the behest of some students and instructors I know, I put together the framework for a video series on kicking, one volume of which was devoted to speed in kicking. The above are a few items I covered in that material, which in turn came from my own notes and writings. In other words, what I’m getting at is that these tips should work for you if you apply them, as they have worked for me very well, in actual practice as well as in relating these concepts to others as a teacher.

Good luck.

Frank Benn
Integrated Arts
Austin, Texas

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